TAKA 八仔ブログ

Mazda Australia’s official RX-8 National Video

2010-07-18T16:36:00.001+10:00

Thanks to Luke. Thanks for coming and took a video of me, although I did not speak.

Mazda RX-8 Nationals 2010

2010-07-13T10:35:00.001+10:00

This year I have the pleasure to join the rest of the RX-8 boys in the Nationals. This is the 6th edition already and I have been only able to go to half of those. For one reason or the other I was not able to make it. A shame I would say since it has always been nice. We even have organized one in 2007.

Wakefield is a good track, especially now it has been resurfaced. The bumpiness of the tarmac has gone. Every good bits associated with Wakefield, ie the trackside accommodation.

Now the track day went smoothly. First we have big breakie that feels us up. I am not going to comment in the masterchef as it was really not that good.

Anyway, I had pretty long time to change to the slicks. Then the worst comes. My slicks was shot! There is no grip whatsoever. Even getting off the line is no good. The first session was still wet with the moisture from defrosting ... Did I mention that we started the day at 0 degree. We had minus 2 the next morning.

Well the theme of the entire day is understeering. And I normally have a lot of methods to deal with that. I lower tyre pressure to get more temp. I soften the damper front then the rear more. No use. I had to modify my driving which is not up to standard anyway to combat that. Shit.

The video will say more

Posted by Taka via the trusted iPad.

Location:Bignell Rd,Moorabbin,Australia

TAKA 8 – WTF. 60.19 sec?!?!??!

2009-12-03T23:18:00.001+11:00

The car is at the track again today this month. I was keen to get the car under 60 seconds. The racechrono program has been improved since last time.

The standing start function is important in hillclimb. I don’t want to cross the line and then start the clock. That inevitably will underestimate the time. But if you start the time when the car moves, then it is more accurate.

Well the real hill climb start when the starting gate release you… include your reaction time to start the car.

Racechrono is way ahead on most GPS based timing system, including Performance/Drift box. YAY!

Back to Haunted Hills

2009-10-14T00:00:00.001+11:00

Well I eventually have time and effort to come back to the scene of motorsports.. It is important for me. I nearly forgot how to drive that bloody thing. Plus I just spend some money to replace the brake disc, pads, fluids and oil. The plugs are clean. So why not fang it?

Come and join me on November 28! I will go again!

Death do not do us part!

2009-09-30T22:52:00.001+10:00

I do not normally sell parts. I love them stacking up in the shed! But a forum member got one stolen from his carport. I had to help!

Found a box from the basement store room of my lab. It is a bit off size so I cut and wrap with packing tape. In fact, it is the idea of the forum mate. He told me that cubic size is much more expensive than weight alone. Although it weighs 12kg, doing it by weight is $19. Doing it by cubic it is easily over $25!

Hope Ash likes the packaging.

60000km service

2009-09-30T22:37:00.001+10:00

Well I put it off for a long while now and I eventually took the RX-8 off charge and brought it to Nelson for a service.

The rotor has worn out nearly completely and I took the Project Mu SCR Pro rotor that I took delivery from Henry about 4 months ago to get it install. The pad I had it for more than a year now. Think they have a good shelf life right????

The rear I had it machined… it looks near brand new!

I also had the spark plugs cleaned and engine oil and filter changed. It brought back the life of the car! It revs and has the 6,500 rpm surge~! Surely it is all the 170kW I need!

Brought the car for alignment and it is not much need to be done. The camber and rear toe are pretty much right. Only the front toe needed to be adjusted… Sweet.

Car is stripping down

2009-09-20T09:08:00.001+10:00

I eventually have time to do something in the car. I started from stripping the boot space lining first.

There are many of these collect. I will buy a box to store those.

There are many surprises when you strip a car. I found some tool stuck in the black and somewhat sticky stuff. I hope I can found some $100 notes later :).

I am not sure what that is for. I was advised that it is for air pressure in the boot while closing and it is seen in many cars. I have not stripped many cars in the past.

You can bring back swirl city black car yourself.

2009-07-20T23:08:00.001+10:00

I have to admit in the last 2 years, especially after I put this old baby as a track car. I basically treat the paintwork like shit. I use carwash brush and no polish for more than 2 years.
I decide that I don't use the 8 that much now and I put the RX-8 as a test mule for cut and polish - major time. If I stuff it up - at least I won't cry over it I don't want to use Zaino either, coz it is on the expansive side and I want something that everyone can do.
I kept using the same products. I have Meguire detail spray with clay bars. Autoglym hard deep gloss wax, the lovely resin polish which I like very very much, the new meguire scratch X 2.0 *(twice as expensive as the original but 2x good - $20), and the bumper care gel which I like becauseI can't be stuffed masking tape all the plastics. It removes extra wax very well.

I have the good old orbitor going at low rev - which is good for applying wax at the end but I need something to cut the scratches so....

I brought this - an rotary buffer from Supercheap auto (I can only find it at Preston shop). It is called Rockwell shopseries (made in China) ... it's a 5" rotary buffer going from 500rpm to 3000rpm (1-6 setting) and has a velcor backing you can attach the wool pad on. However, I replaced it a foam pad instead (I brought a very nice foam pad from autobarn for $26 made by K&H - local and australian made). The rotary from Rockwell is about $72 - on sale at the time.

It looked like a swirl city before I started. I started by using the clay bar to get rid of the big residual first. It should feel like smooth after clay bar.

This is after 1-2 applications of scratch 2.0X with the faster rotary setting at 2000rpm-2500rpm.

I need 3-4 applications to bring back most swirls. Now it just leave the thousands of stone clips I collected on the track days.
Final results: There is still some ripple strip effect under strong sun. I don't know how to get rid of it (EDIT: On retrospect I may have used too much wax for it. I will cut down on them for next time)

The car is still very easy to collect swirls afterwards. There is a product out there to firm the wax up and resist minor swirls. May be I will use it next time.

A new RX-8… office chair

2009-04-04T20:23:00.001+11:00

I took the delivery of my new RX-8 office chair. How cool is that? Stephen & Eric from UPanel Ringwood made this for me.

The seat is nearly fully functional. The back rest can move up and down and the seat can go limited forward, backward, up and down. Only the lumber adjustment is not wired. I will be game to hot up the remaining wires to see if the lumber support can be adjusted. But I will be risking an explosion to the air bag. .

The power is from a 12V battery from Jaycar. They seems to last forever but they are easily rechargeable.

I am very happy indeed. A seat for GT5 on PlayStation.

He is about to flood the engine

2009-04-01T23:28:00.001+11:00

This is not my car, but being a Victorian I should know this dude do I???? He is probably not on the rx8club but I would like to find out.

I do have a question… what is wrong with the remote and besides GPS tracking. What is so good about the application?

Turning engine on remotely has been around for decades… why do people still want it?

This will remain in not ‘my cup of tea’ gadgets category.

Driver Dynamics Drift day

2009-03-09T08:50:00.001+11:00

I decided this year I may not be doing a lot of track day. A lot of expenses to be paid and there is a new baby on the way, a BMW 135i. I saw there is an exact same one from a forum member from 1addicts. Well I still love white sports car with red leather. I will keep that Honda Type R theme going in my future cars if possible.

Back to about the day. This is a education introduction day for drifting and it is not easy for someone who never drifted though. However, it has a very friendly environment and good teaching. You can do your own pace too. There is no pressure of being the coolest sideways. Some who drifts regularly will get more cheers. But I am please that most people thing that some part of my drift exercise that day looks good. haha. I am totally shit at it.

Feeling HOT HOT HOT! MX-5 Winton track day

2009-02-02T16:49:00.000+11:00

I cannot imagine how come there is no fire ball behind my car. I will never think of describing a 35 degree plus track day at Winton. However, more than a week of 40+ degree day at Winton make it a very interesting day indeed (NOT)...

The day did not start well. I started driving at 4am to get to Winton only to know that they did not come and open the gate before 5 minutes to 8am. What the...

Changing tyres at 30 plus degree morning heat is bad enough... but putting the full body suit on because we want something fireproof... it is beyond hell.

The water coolant temperature is going up as quickly as the tachometer itself, and the only relief I get is to short shift the car. Even so the coolant temp is still higher than desired.

So I just packed up before they change it to the short track. I think most people with turbo MX-5s also left after lunch. Not worth breaking your car for...

I don't have much video to show - this is the crappy stuff I put together.

2009 Victorian Track Sprint Schedule

2008-12-31T20:41:00.000+11:00

Here is the schedule this year. It will be continue updated until the end of 2009 and highlight my potential starters and DNS.

19/01/09 - MCA - Phillip Island Practice
26/01/09 - CC (NSW) - Wakefield Park
01/02/09 - MX5 Club Vic - Winton (form)
14/02/09 - WRX - Haunted Hills Hillclimb
14/02/09 - Driver Dynamics Sandown
15/02/09 - PIARC - Phillip Island Sprint
15/02/09 - MCA - Haunted Hills Hillclimb
01/03/09 - AROCA - Winton Sprint (short track)
08/03/09 - HSCCV/FFCC - Haunted Hills Hillclimb
12/03/09 - Events O'Neill Sandown
|22/3/09 - RENEW Wakefield (form)
28/03/09 - Driver Dynamics Sandown
04/04/09 - WRX - Phillip Island Sprints
19/04/09 - MCA - Sandown GP
23/04/09 - Events O'Neill Sandown
25/04/09 - WRX - Sandown Sprints
27/04/09 - CC (NSW) - Wakefield Park
02/05/09 - Driver Dynamics Sandown
10/05/09 - HSCCV/FFCC - Sandown Sprint
28/05/09 - Events O'Neill Sandown
31/05/09 - AROCA - Sandown Sprint
31/05/09 - PIARC - Phillip Island Sprint
06/06/09 - Driver Dynamics Sandown
13/06/09 - CC (NSW) - Wakefield Park
21/06/09 - MCA - Winton Sprints
25/06/09 - Event O'Neill Sandown
28/06/09 - WRX - Sandown Sprint
04/07/09 - AROCA - Phillip Island Sprint
04/07/09 - Driver Dynamics Sandown
12/07/09 - HSCCV/FFCC - Sandown Sprint
18/07/09 - WRX - Winton Sprint
25/07/09 - CC (NSW) - Wakefield Park
26/07/09 - NCCA - Sandown John Mott Sprint

08/08/09 - OzRenesis/RX-8 Club RX-8 Nationals Wakefield

09/08/09 - AROCA - Winton Sprint and Regularity (long track)
16/08/09 - PIARC - Phillip Island Sprint
16/08/09 - MCA - Sandown Trident Day
05/09/09 - CC (NSW) - Wakefield Park
??/09/09 - AROCA - Sandown Sprint (tba)
27/09/09 - HSCCV/FFCC - Haunted Hills Hillclimb
05/10/09 - CC (NSW) - Wakefield Park
10/10/09 - WRX - Winton Sprints
17/10/09 - AROCA - Winton AROCA 6 hr Relay
18/10/09 - AROCA - Winton AROCA 6 hr Relay
25/10/09 - MCA - Sandown Annual
03/11/09 - HSCCV/FFCC - Sandown Cup Day Sprint
15/11/09 - PIARC - Phillip Island Sprint
28/11/09 - CC (NSW) - Oran Park GP
13/12/09 - AROCA - Phillip Island Sprint
19/12/09 - CC (NSW) - Wakefield Park CC Festival
20/12/09 - CC (NSW) - Wakefield Park CC Festival

A wet Winton track day = hard work, but I have got POWER!

2008-12-17T09:02:00.001+11:00

This should be the last track day of the year and proven to be interesting. The unusual severe rain cloud gathered over Benalla and provide an interesting experience on a race track that has the reputation of the lack of grip.

Today I was going through the data, comparing the run from Tampermotorsport days which is a dry track to this time in a wet track. Seriously, look at the acceleration of my car. Left graph is the little straight coming from turn 10, and the speed is 10 kph slower coming out of it and seriously, I am sure the throttle will be slower to get in on a very wet track, but still speed before I braked in the wet is only 2kph differnet from dry. Same goes to the main back straight. 13 kph to start and by the end of straight, 2.3 kph only!!!

The sleep of the acceleration increase so much. The only mod you can see is change of spark plug and my butt dyno told me the power is back. It is back!

Rear endlink, lower arm bushings, and battery relocations.

2008-12-06T21:13:00.001+11:00

I at least check my car 4 times a year at my mechanics. So change of from spring to summer, it is time to do another check. I only did 2000km since last change and 3 short cool spring track days since last oil change. I don't see the difference in terms of colour from the dip stick. So it is topped up to full mark and left for another day. Will change after new year or before the next track day.

I eventually get the rear Autoexe endlink installed. This is much adjustable but the require length is much shorter than stock. Stock is very high for the height of the car. I also get the member metal washer installed.

Then the major job to relocate the battery from the front or in front of steering axle to on top and slightly rearward to the axle. And the battery used now, although is much weaker in terms of crank amps (380 vs 750 CCA), is much lighter (7.8kg vs 17kg).

The empty space left after the battery case is removed is interesting. The idea is also to increase airflow though the engine bay. You can see the left side of space created shows the silver bracket of the Defi coolant sensor (that bracket is made from Fujita eng). So it is near radiator and hopefully air will partly go through there. I was told about this from a friend in Japan (thx Tom).

This kit is made by RE Amemiya, Please read my previous post about this. We found out the problem when we cannot match all.... the instructions in the installation menu. Firstly the stock washer is different shape in Australia, thanks to the stupid rule that all the HID lights sold has to have a washer. I wonder this is still current. Anyway we have to remove this motor and the washer tank, with the sensor attached. Lucky the low washer level light did not lid on the dash after removal of it. Otherwise it will drive me mad.

But the wiring of my RX-8 at the battery (+) point is different from the installation menu. Particularly, there is a big big big positive from the radiator side that seems to be missing in the Japanese models. Well we cannot risk a major error since you see that square box is the EPS (electronic power steering) fuse. Loosing power steering is not fun on the road at speed or no no on the track. No power steering is very heavy, you cannot even steer to get out of a car spot. (Addition: Now we have put all the cable back together like stock mode. Instead of the RE Amemiya's suggestion to bring the EPS unit by an extension cord to the new battery location. We feel that the extra wires and stuff deserves a proper connection so we just get a long connecter to connect from the stock location to the new location. Hope that will last long)

This is the bonus oil catch can. The supplied tube runs from the top of oil inlet to the can before going to the MAF tube.

The washer is now this tinny wee can size haha. The original motor can be used on the side (not shown in the picture). The odyssey battery sits very prettily in the bracket.

I also change the spark plugs. The old plugs are covered with carbon deposits after a year of track days plus very limited daily drive. But it is not fouled at all. However, even the difference from this good looking covered plugs to clean ones are amazing. I think I will clean those plug quite frequently now. I have asked Nelson to clean the plugs and save them for about autumn/winter time. We have also tested the spark plug cords/leads (after 2 years changing to the Fujita ones). They are ok. Resistance is about 380mOhm on leading, which is longer than the trailing ones at about 270mOhms. We decided if any one is under 200, we will change the whole set before burning the current set of coils.

It is now set for next Saturday's Winton day. Forecast is some rain/shower 3 days leading to Saturday's track day. The chance is low but we will see. Finger crossed .

RaceChrono2AVI rivals the legendary TrackVision

2008-11-07T19:52:00.001+11:00

This is the new beta version 0.3.27.

The updates include:
- Speed Smoothing
- new interface for customization of digital display and gauges.
- Digital displays can change foreground and background colors and can been bring to front.
- Program window got top caption again and can be moved by clicking only on the caption
- A new digital display for the "best lap so far", it will show the best lap only when it will reach and will blink for 10 seconds.
- Track gauge will not clear any more the original background before drawing the gps track, look at the Winton track gauge for an example.
- Avoiding absolute path in cfg files.
- "ON AIR" icon shown when avi recording is active.

This beta version alone is already better than TrackVision. Comparing RaceChrono2AVI to TrackVision:

1. RaceChrono2AVI is free. TrackVision costs $200 to buy, and they have to authorise the payment as per server so there won't be cracks or even potential sign in/installation problems.

2. RaceChrono2AVI's gauges can be arranged by drag and drop the gauges to the place you want. TrackVision can be customised only by doing the codes.

3. RaceChrono2AVI renders a movie of the data in any format you choose. Then you use that video to overlay your track in car camera's video. You need a video editor such as Sony Vegas or similar to do that. It is an extra program but who has DV video does not have a video editing software, and you can do DV widescreen for your video. TrackVision includes a video render program that does not allow to insert other video (so you still need a video editor to make a story or a track blog) and rendering video is in 4:3 aspect ratio only.

4. RaceChrono2AVI is easier to make your own dash. I try to do that in TrackVision. Although the code (language) use to generate the dials are similar, it is still pretty hard to adjust the exact position and also the calibration of rpm gauge and speedometer (refer again to point 2).

The followings are the screen shots of my 2 custom dashes (the cfg files can be download here). Unzip and install the files to the RaceChrono2AVI/cfg/ folder

The result is this:

Also the RaceChrono program can be used to measure a course. So you want to show how fast you move from Point A to Point B. A touge run hehe!

RaceChrono's data video maker (RaceChrono2AVI) takes shape

2008-10-30T21:03:00.001+11:00

This is more interesting news for the RaceChrono fan and video maker likewise. This program (RaceChrono2AVI) has taken shape and promise to rival the top race data video premier (TrackVision). It is true that TrackVision have video rendering function for the average Joe for video editing. But most people into digital video will have the software (in my case Sony Vegas Movie Studio Platinum 9) to edit the picture. Most video editing software allows picture in picture function, and the rendering flexibility and quality is professional, and far more superior than TrackVision. You can make a video track blog like mine below with race data for instance. Very useful indeed. More in the RaceChrono2AVI forum.

The latest beta utilise data export from RaceChrono beta v1.02.

Here is the final product. Most of the thing can be changed. The background (the RX-8 dash), the rpm gauge, the speedometer configuration, all the lap times and gauges there, track map etc have choices and all are drag and drop. Finally the movie is made by video capturing in real time, so no more touching the screen and let it run.

Picture in picture the video data, result in this!

Latest beta can be download HERE (beta v0.3.22).

Beat the falling dollar - a few goodies (parts)

2008-10-29T18:04:00.001+11:00

I got these new Japan made OEM Mazda mats with nice emblem on them. My original one is worn badly, at the same area in the the square of this new one. So this one has a more rough and touch fabric inside the square to combat this problem. I intend to use it though for stability, when I have the interior stripped out I will use this mat so that I won't slip in the car haha.

Another box of goodies came the other day. I order this a while ago when the Yen is still 88 to a dollar. So these only cost $800AUD. Now they are over $1000AUD. I got the above rear Autoexe endlink to match the front. Also I have a replacement set of the spark plugs that I have now. As you recall from the last video that I have problem getting up the hill. If the plug are full of carbon and cannot be cleaned, I have a new set to replace them.

These are rear member joints. They are aimed to stabilize the rear, giving more control. Less flex will surely give me more confident to power out quicker.

Should have order more, only if I knew the dollar is so low now. .

I also ordered a battery relocation kit from RE Amemiya. I got to install them and do more picture then. But these are the current pictures.

These are the water washer tank... I think I need this. At least to use to direct the water to the intercooler or radiator LOL.

Oil catch can, with a let off pipe for drainage. The tube besides it show how much oil there is. I don't think they will be reusable. LOL.

Battery stay for relocation. It is smaller than OEM battery so I will have to get a slimline battery. Odyssey is top choice so far, since D-technique is using it.

Sandown Night Sessions

2008-10-26T21:21:00.004+11:00

This is my first night session @ Sandown and hell do I love it. My aim this track day is to work on the sector 4 and 5 of the course.

As you can see the 4th sector (between S3-S4) is the downhill left sweeper towards the Dandenong corner and the final sector is the S bend before the front straight. I have been missing on those areas to improve my times. As my car is not the lightest and not the most powerful, anything that I can milk out of the corners will give me bonus and hopefully later able to hit into the low 31s. I did just that. I gain about 3 10th on the final sector. The 4th sector is nearly equal on time but with the wind I was not able to put some top speed on the car.

I also need to look at the spark plug since it is about closing on the 10000km mark. But I think the power is fine on the front straight and the whole lost of speed is a combination of head wind and lack of power out at Turn 4.

Enjoy the video blog that I just made. If you don't like to be called Vinny (I can change that ). He probably will not see that anyway. There is a lot of improvement in the video software (RaceChrono2AVI since then).

RaceChrono2AVI program - TrackVision for free

2008-10-07T22:23:00.001+11:00

If you have played RaceChrono enough, you will love this program. This is the TrackVision for the RaceChrono, and for developer to call it RaceChrono2AVI (download HERE). This program uses the .csv files export from RaceChrono and use it to generate a moving AVI file. All you have to do is to use a movie maker to combine a picture in picture video. I use Sony Vegas Platinum 7.

A few bugs at this stage:

1) I cannot use single lap files. All lap files are used at this stage.
2) The capture does not work in all Windows Themes. I use the Classic theme to reduce the top of the bar and it works perfectly.

*******both the above has been solved and a new beta V0.1.15 has come out (8/10/2008)*********

The end result:

TrackVision demo review

2008-10-02T20:03:00.001+10:00

I have eventually downloaded the demo version of the TrackVision and now RaceChrono (beta v1.01 or better) can be used to render and integrate the data into the video file. The demo version allows you to view the files in action but the video cannot be exported or saved. At the moment (RaceChrono beta v1.02), the data that can be used in TrackVision includes speed, rpm, map and position, throttle position, and G meters. This is a screen shot of that. The dashboard is custom made and I have emailed to Antti at RaceChrono for review.

It does give immense versatility to set it up probably, but that means it can only work with one particular model of cars, since there are so many variable to set up. This is the screenshot of the demo, and it is poor quality. The real thing is also subpar as the rendering program is not up to professional standard.

A forum member, on the other hand, offers to write another program which render an avi format video from the data. The only thing you have to do is to PIP the clip in the main clip. Just like the best motoring mode. Sweet if it is free!

My Q-steer RX-8

2008-10-01T17:38:00.001+10:00

It is small and fun, and I can make a F1 course for that and set some record haha. The other is a phone strap.

In action:

Video Blog: TMS Winton Track day

2008-10-01T09:04:00.001+10:00

This is the video track blog for my track day last Sunday at Winton, organised by Tampered MotorSports. There are so many cars that it is unbelievable. There are 6 groups that means plenty of time and so little track time.I only did 26 laps or so for the whole day. Also they have 20 minutes sessions that most car could not lap continuously due to tyre and brake restrains.

I did a good opening session. When the track temp is going up through out the day, the time falls for everyone. I had my best lap of the day heading in the low 42 before a mistake of overbraking.

Clean airway

2008-09-25T12:20:00.001+10:00

I took out the filter element to my horror I saw some oil in the engine face of the filter. Ok the poor baby chuck some oil. It is time to investigate how it happens.

I drove to Nelson @ Racing Project and ask him to take the air box, MAF tubing and look at the throttle body. The throttle body is clean and does not seems to have oil coming from the engine. Why does it have it in the MAF tube then??

Ah there is a tube that coming from the tube where I put the oil connecting to the MAF tube. I don't why it is there but I am sure it is there for a reason so I left it there. The opening is so high up that I think when I put oil in straight (without a funnel) that I must have got some oil into the tube. That is also why the oil in the tube and filter look so fresh.

Ok, I must now be careful when I put engine oil in and also use a funnel (stop being lazy).

I also change the filter back to the R Magic pipercross. The car felt different but I am sure it is to the better or worse.

Suspension once sort out; future major power mod

2008-09-19T20:51:00.001+10:00

Suspension

I went to an expert today. Centreline suspension is one of the oldest in the business. When I said "old", I DO mean "old". A non-computerised, technical, old-fashion, stone-aged, down to earth, suspension centre. They have racing experience from the ice age and hold a barest of the mechanical equipment. Even doing alignment is manual. By manual I mean have 2 lines parallel to the car and measure using a ruler. . I dreaded that I did not see how they did the camber.

I was waiting them to take out the scale for corner balancing. To my horror they did not bring out a balance scale with their pet elephant at the other end. It is an electronic gadget!

These are what they "measured" and aligned.

Front Toe 3mm total. Camber -2 1/4 degree. Caster 6 degree.
Rear Toe 1mm in both side Camber -2 1/4 degree.

Corner weight (with a fat me in it ). Actually not much being done. Since the last time was done about 6 months ago. It is pretty good even I have the front battery change, bucket seat installed (that is about 15kg difference)... I must be gained that much weight???? But actually the car is 7kg lighter than last time. I think even I lost 20kg, because I am sitting pretty much between the car, the cross weight will still be balanced. No point to redo it again for a long time.

FL 360kg FR 387kg

RL 321kg FR 355kg cross weight 50.2%

Total weight with TAKA 1423kg (Full fuel tank)

Also I had them to look at the ride height. They said the A arm is pretty much flat to slightly tilted upward, so if any lower (like last time I was at Philip Island). is too undesirable. So I make some relief.

I don't know what they did. The biggest change is the caster. I think it is driving very well. Must be confident now for next Sunday at Winton

Power end

I went to see Simon @ Promaz with the full knowledge that I will get sucked in and probably end up spending a lot of money to get his stuff. Yes he told me that if I want the car being a race car and not require EPA certificate. He will do it up with electric water pump, methanol injector, engine rebuild, balanced and improve seal, larger turbo, bigger boost, straight exhaust and .... wait for it 300+ kW AT THE WHEEL! He is doing just that to his drag car, but he will detune it for a track racer. OH MY!

800hp bearing tubro.... I just need to find the clutch and LSD that can withstand that . Kaaz has the one for RX-7 as well as the 8 so I at least find one.

Water pump exchanged

2008-09-11T01:01:00.001+10:00

I have installed the MazMart REmedy Waterpump. It looks like the stock housing with a new blade on them. They claim that this pump will have twice the flow at 8000rpm. Certainly nice to avoid cavitation on track. The one on the left is the stock one and the one on the right is the MazMart water pump. Nice

When Nelson took stock one out, and had a look at the side and found the stock pump is leaking very so slightly. So I guess it is a good decision to change it in the first place.

I also ask Nelson to change the brake fluid (Motul 600RBF), LSD oil (Redline 80W140 aka smelly shit) and the gear oil (Redline lightweight shockproof). Nelson has used my empty fire extinguisher to put them in... what a recycling expert!

I made my old iBlue 737 1Hz GPS to run at 5Hz

2008-09-06T22:07:00.000+10:00

This is a method that is well described here.

I am here to explain in very layman's language of how to do it and why we do it.

The old GPS is a bluetooth device and operate at 1Hz. That means a set of co-ordinates are updated 1 time per second. That is very much enough for daily traffic and GPS navigation. However, for motorsports application, it is more advantages to get more data. This unit is also sold with the 5Hz function, which is set at factory.

Someone found out that you can change the update rate on those units by sending a command via computer to the unit. The 1Hz device does not have a link/bridge/wire so that computer can control the update rate. To do that, one must create a link/bridge/wire on existing in the 1Hz device. The link we can use a resistor. Here is how to do it.

Tool required:

1 x 0.5W 1K Ohm resistor (a pack of 8 can be purchased from JayCar for $0.32),
Small spectacle screw drivers (the blade small enough to fit the groove of the unit.

You have to open the unit, to do so you find a sharp screwdriver (such as one to fix spectacles), insert biggest one that can fit the tiny grove at the back of the unit (see the picture below), twists, and open it slowly. This is to loosen the clips at the back and on both sides. The front has no clips so just open and pull backwards. Make sure the on/off switch does not drop on the floor.

Once you get it open. Have a closer look at the board and use the two picture below to orientate yourself. Then use one of the resistor to align the two holes together. By linking this 2 holes you can write commands on the GPS. I don't know why the author in the above link asked us to solder the resistor in. But I found that the wire is slug fit the hole and it is pretty secure. If you have enough wires through the hole as shown in the picture, I cannot see how the resistor will come undone. Even if it is undone, you just need to put it back in next time to send another command. Big deal. If I solder it, I am sure I will cross at the wire near all those closely located holes. Coz I am very messy.

Click on the photo and see the wiring clearly.

To change the rate. First you have to acquire a program to do so. One such program can be download free from Qstarz download centre. It is a rar file (another type of zip file), so you need a WinRAR to unzip (or un-rar) it.

It is a .exe program and when you open it. You will see this. Pair your bluetooth with your computer first, and take note on the COM number of the connection (or right click on the connection and choose properties menu, I am sure it will be listed somewhere). The bluetooth on mine is COM 41 and I set 115200 as the Baul rate (whatever it means). If you don't have a bluetooth in your computer, you need to buy one. I have not make it work via USB at all.

Ok once it is connected, you will see a set of numbers flash across the big text box below the On button and the SNR box will show you the satellate tracking status.

If it flash roughly once a second, you are at 1 Hz. If it goes crazy, it is pretty much at 5Hz. LOL.

Now click the "setup" tab, you see the fix update rate there. Choose 5. Click Set!

If the resistor made correctly, SEND OK banner will turn up. Go back to status, it will update crazy! WALAHH!

WHY DO YOU DO THIS WHEN 5Hz unit exists:

Perheps you have a 1Hz device now and see if you can change it to 5Hz.
The iBlue 737 is $69 + postage at eBay and 747 is $79. Qstarz Q818 extreme is $99 + postage.

KIND ADVICE: If you have a flat battery, you will go back to 1 Hz, so keep the battery charged or check it periodically if it is still operating at 5Hz.

WARNING: See below

DISCLAIMER: Edit your hardware at your own risk, don't blame me if you blow up your house and caught on fire. I will not bear any responsibility on the above I have written. It is like believe me or not!

Chicken! I could not drive as fast as I used to

2008-09-03T01:03:00.000+10:00

Back from the OTR track day last Saturday, feeling a bit shit about the whole thing. I really want to have a car back that has nothing really wrong with it. Yes, I did. But being nearly 3 seconds slower will that do?

I decided to spice thing up with a new video blog. Well because there is nothing really to cheer about, I made this sort of nice. Not British car show like but I am going to do the same for the upcoming track day, on the 28th of Sept, with Wayne

New Toy

2008-08-09T01:05:00.000+10:00

I have been putting off buying this. But there are 2 track days coming up at Winton, and last time I went to Sandown only and back. I had to pick so many stone chips that it is not funny. These soft compound will become rock magnet when it is soft. It is better off changing them at the pit lane. I have tried this on the tyre already and I was surprised how easy I can be done.

It is a 18V impact driver that rated 220Nm in torque. Hang on, that is just slightly more than my rotary engine. Haha. It can take the nut off any time and it is like taking about 5 clicks to take a 80 lbs-ft torqued nuts. Impressive. I have to make sure I don't thread them when I put them in. The gun has variable speed so I can slow wind them up before I gun them in. I will of course finish it off with torque wrench too.

TrackVision is coming soon with RaceChrono

2008-08-07T22:02:00.000+10:00

Antti from racechrono has told me that he is planning to make this work. Some people already trailing to use the data on the TrackVision program. The result is this on YouTube video! You can add your video with the track data generated by RaceChrono. Cool!~~

Here it is. Nice cool video. God bless Racechrono.

(BTW I add code "&ap=%2526fmt%3D18" to the end of the URL of the youtube link to get high quality embedding)

New blue battery - Exide Orbital 750CCA

2008-08-06T21:58:00.000+10:00

Well yesterday my car would not start and the electric shows signs of dying. Well lucky someone at work had jumping leads and I could start again. There was a yellow engine light so I don't want to drive the car to recharge it. So I quickly went home and recharge the good old battery. It has been a few year since it has been replaced and I thought... may as well.

Battling the flu, I took a day off. The car started without problem today, and I use the OBDkey to monitor the ECU voltage while driving to Nelson's workshop. The yellow light was permanently on and the OBD scanner show that it is due to throttle position error. I had no problem with it today, although the OBD logger show the throttle position from 15-78% (from full off to full on). Change the battery, clear the code, never returns.

Then the problems started rising. Only a spot of the leads, there are too much residue on the old battery. So it is time to clear up and think that the positive lead is corroded. So went to a local battery shop to buy a non spillable battery. It felt lighter but no way to know since I did not weigh it (other website said 18.6kg, which is about right). It fits perfectly, but the leads are on the other side. We had to add an extension cord to fit the lids, therefore to replace the worn out old rusted lead head. But the power steering did not work! It turns out the plate came out of the relay and lost. Need to seperate the battery from the relay man!

More info of battery HERE

At the same time I decided to change the coolant and use more concentrate than prescribed. See if that works well.

I also got a N95 specific phone holder, it is so nice that I can see the lap time on the right of the steering wheel.

Next is to get an impact wrench to take the tyres off at the pit lane.

OBDkey

2008-07-18T21:57:00.000+10:00

That is what I just have recently. I am getting a lot of useless gadget lately. This is a bluetooth OBD/CAN scanner that can take data from ANY car. Any car is nice, since I am shopping for my 2nd car. Just been putting it in my car. The unit is pretty small and it will not in anyway affecting the driving.

It can be used in PC with bluetooth. Windows smartphone or Palm/Window CE PDA. No Nokia smartphone program yet, but racechrono can use it to scan the data and it works! Data logging capability will allow logging of the data. Although it cannot be exported, just reading the data on the screen is cool enough.

This is what you can see in the screen of Nokia N95. The grey line is

I also went with my friend WAY in his new 135i (experimenting ECU tune and catless downpipe). We did a 4.95 sec! We thought after reviewing the GPS data that we prob did a 5.70 sec, but after consultation with racechrono developer Antti, we just need to determine 100kmh GPS speed in OBD then we will have a time! So it is just over 5 sec! Fast.

A 5Hz GPS

2008-07-04T21:56:00.000+10:00

While the car is in the panel shop (btw the insurance claim has been approved), I gathered some new equipment for testing and lap timing. I really thing the GPS system is the way to go now. Anyone is going to buy my AIMS? I may still keep it as back up but I think racechrono is what I am going to use from now on.

This is the new equipment. A 5Hz GPS receiver, it is simple device, running a background of 1Hz. When the unit is 1Hz, they update the GPS data, and thus getting the data, once each minute. A 5Hz is than 5 times faster, update and getting a data point every 0.2 second. That means very accurate result. The V Box is a 10Hz unit. So this semi pro!

This unit looks like any ordinary BT receiver. In fact the back of it look exactly the same as my iBule GPS receiver. The only difference is the word "eXtreme". The 5Hz is not the default setup and the unit need to connect to the PC to get into a program came with the CD. Then, you select 5Hz in it. Do not touch the program afterwards, coz it is very easy to reset it back to 1Hz mode.

But after setting it the unit is amazing. I ran racechrono on it and it is definitely getting data 5 times a second. Perfect!

Did some run on my 4x4 Toyota Kluger on the freeway. 0-100kmh only (all legal)

I mean the time came up so fast in this GPS make it very worthwhile on the track. I think I am buying a sturdy mount for it. Do I really need a second mount?

What do you reckon on those?

Sandown driving lesson - oh what a lesson

2008-06-19T21:53:00.000+10:00

On Friday I went to Sandown to get some practice laps with Driver Dynamics. Oh god what a day! I crashed again. Here is the story to tell.

I already battled with the flu all weak, with self diagnosis of viral tonsillitis. At the time of writing it, it is the first time feeling comfortable. So I was a bit run down. After 3 sessions, I was already equalled by best time at Sandown (1:31.78). I needed to do better. When I decided to chase the guy in front (a Z M3) to get a target, I oversteered coming out of turn 4 and could not get back enough. The road is too narrow and I brushed the barrier. Here is the damage! On first sight with Nelson it is cosmetic only. The oil cooler just behind that was pushed it but appear undamaged, since the bracket appear intact with no scratches or breakage. The oil pressure appear normal driving back from Sandown. More detailed assessment on Monday.

Sratches are in the side and the clear corner is cracked a little and there is a dent just next to the headlight set. Lucky is that the headlight is ok and the oil cooler ... finger crossed.

There is the video of the accident. Please comment if you can. I basically was not preparing the spin and was half a second late to wind the steering wheel down or to get the power off. The tyre so slap quickly when they are cold compare with they are warmed up. I guess that is the biggest lession to learn here.

Video = "What you should not do when you have cold tyres"

Otherwise it is a good day. It is time for me to drive the Dunlop tyres and so far I give it a BIG thumbs up. These are sticky tyres! They are so responsive to change in direction and so progressive when understeering. They create the best tyre - bitumen matching. You know Sandown is old technology tarmac and it needs some matching in compound. I am sticking with these for a while.

I have increase the caster (+7.9) with reduction of camber (-1.6) at the same time, in anticipate to rain (which did not arrive). The car understeer a bit but it is no big deal. The tyre temperature runs less than 5 degree across from inside to outside. RevSpeed recently recommend testing the tyre to up to 9 degree different across the tyre. So it is ok. The right front is reduced to about 1/2 the thread but it is expected. I guess too much camber on the front decrease the grip at turn 1, which is off camber sloped down left hander, so the right front will suffer no matter what you do.

Some randown shots!

Here we are. This time I changed the ignition coil so there is no issue with misfire!

Another Z4M with no mods. They are very powerful

Mr Brown brought his tubroed renesis. We are comparing the oil and water temp during the day. He wins in these parameters. He did a 1:27 flat today, well done Craig!

Some dangerous wind slicing wing here. No cops with yellow canary around I hope.

Assyl with his new 911 black spec. Well everything is black, including the driver's suit and helmet.

Wayne brought a new helmet for this track day. Good on him. He needs it when he drive this magnificant BMW 135i with twin tubro flat 6, 225kW and 400Nm. That is a lot of power. I tried it. I love it. No money to have it though.

Next thread I will talk about the data I got and some video.

Taka in RX-7 magazine (Japan)

2008-06-12T21:45:00.000+10:00

I appear in the RX-7 magazine Japan. The interview was performed last year in Aug 07. That day KnightSport people came and tuned the ECU of my 8.

The caption of the picture said, "Australia's first vehicle being tuned is TAKA's RX-8. He is the RENESIS club staff. Defi link meter works for all the RX-8 around the world and it is the best system yet!"

Back to skid/drive school....

2008-05-14T21:50:00.000+10:00

I decided that it is time to go back to basic and I think I am losing touch with my driving. Perhaps I have gained some bad habit during the last year or so.

One thing I found after the crash is that I have phobia of spinning. So I think it is worthwhile to learn some car control

Kevin is kindly arranged for us to have the skid pan at Atwood again. So I take the first lesson before the exam.

The problem with the car is that there is too much grip! The positive caster bring the car straight very easily and it is hard when the rear tyre has so much grip comparing the front, so the car is very understeery. But when it is on the skid the car is very controllable and you have to really step the gas to bring the car around. When the car is on the less oily section ... the car brings back quickly and it is hard to adjust the power to keep the skid going. I have too much to learn there.

I learnt very quickly that when just leaving the hand loose on the steering, the caster will pretty much bring the car forward and to the opposite lock. Perfect for track, not so great for skid pan haha.

(Thanks Daniel from shotatcloserange.com for the photos)

Service April 2008 and new Bride seat

2008-04-23T21:42:00.000+10:00

Well I thing it is time to check a few things in the car and change engine oil. I have found the source of the "wooo" noise at 3000 rpm. Click and look at the picture on the left. The metal wool on the header shield should really stick on the header hard but it is totally loose. So it vibrate and in the right frequency it will make the "noise".

Need repair but Nelson said it will need to take the header ie lots of time = large neighbour cost.

The engine mounts look ok though... they feel strong and the metal looks shiny with no cracks.

The stock member brace totally bend. Prob I damaged it last time I transport the car with my 4WD. Have to phone Mazda tomorrow to see the cost of replacing one. I probably opt not to repair it. Lucky it is not my Autoexe lower arm cross bar though

Now my Bride Seat

It is a very tight seat. The Bride VIOS III low max seat with LF type rail you will get much more head room. The website said that for the RX-8 the new seat will be 80mm lower but I think it is not that much. It is very hard to measure but I am sure it still very significant. I am more lower in my view that I may need to lower my steering wheel to drive. My legs are VERY tight.

It is certainly worth the money. I feel so good that I want to drive aggressively already. At least I want to drive again now!

For those who wants to get rid of the airbag light. Get a 2ohm resister. I got one 1/4W 1R8 and it worked perfectly (so far)

Not quite right

2008-03-02T22:40:00.000+11:00

I decided to tow the car for the last track day at Winton raceway. It require a slope, a trailer, my new four wheel drive, and a few strong tie downs. It is a good experience and it is certainly worth the trip. Relaxing way and keep the tyres fresh.

The car felt strong at the start and ran a respectable 42.9 in the first session. The pressure afterwards is 36 psi hot and certainly with the heat in the afternoon, I am on par to get my PB. However, my fortune ran out in the second session when the back of the seat broke. I had nothing to hold on to and it is not fun anymore.

Certainly the data gather from the racechrono shows.

The sharp corner suffers consistantly....

Well I need a new seat and race seat it is.

I also decided to change the tyre. I have enough of the Yoko. They are much like a girl. High maintance, lots of fun when driving it, but never a fast one....

Is that the right way to keep the tyre fresh

2007-10-13T21:31:00.000+10:00

Glad wrapped!

My theory is to keep the moisture in the tyre, preventing your tyre to dry out.

Place your theory!

Mazda RX-8 Nationals 2007

2007-10-06T00:49:00.000+10:00

It was not the perfect day for me. I had been struggling with my step up during the day. The event itself was perfect.

We arrived at the Leisure park on Friday afternoon. There were plenty to do in Benalla (NOT)! So we went out to the race track very quicky and inspected the track. It looked good, although some open wheel Ford went out at the roll over corner.

After Phillip Island mishap, I was very cautious of what I was doing. I had to make sure everything in the car was right. So much so that I misplaced my phone, then my wallet, and had to chase around for it. I knew my mind was wrong.

Rain fell in the middle of Friday night but the weather was perfect for the track day. The air temperature is about 20 degree but the track temp is much lower. Wish the track was much colder since most people were struggling in the morning. I, however, had a much longer task getting the balance right. I will tell you what the problem is later on.

No mishap for today thank god, because I was driving well within myself. Still manage a 1:42.1. I got to be happy with that.

This track day will be my last for 2007. I have decided to have lots of rest and clear my mind for the track days in 2008. I will crack 1:40s in 2008 or I will stop tracking (maybe )

More photos for the day
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l230/taka_rx8/The%20Nats%202007/?start=all

Phillip island video

2007-09-28T20:24:00.000+10:00

This is the fastest lap of the meet. No you will not see the crash video - too painful to edit and cut! At the end of the year perhaps.

It has to be done... the Phillip Island curse

2007-09-11T20:13:00.000+10:00

Well. It was too painful to write it. Even painful enough just to think, but after a few days of claiming down most of the stuff is resolved and parts are ordered. Yes, the ride is crashed. Well I now remembered (after reviewing the video) that I went really really wide in the southern loop that my rear right was touching the gravel and spun.

The result is this.

Here is the damage and what survived:

Front bumper needs to be replaced.
Left front fog light bracket is done but the light itself is working, even the light bulb survives!
Oil cooler is squashed and need to be replaced (ouch!)
The grills and everything else are ok.
Rear right underguard (where the side skirt is) is dented.
The right rear toe and caster arms were bent.
The right rear wheel is off circle a little (will be repaired) and a spare has been purchased.
All tyres are ok.
All brakes and wheel needs to be cleaned.

On the upside I did a 1'59"86. Link here

The circuit is fast and grippy, way too fast and way too grippy in my opinion. It has created some false sense of security and a mad rush of adrenalin. You can take a bend with full throttle at 4gh gear is very addictive. It is so nerve wrecking (what a wrong word to use here ) that one of these fear or thrill will actual give you endorphin to your brain, creating such an euphoria.

I have the video, which I am not prepare to watch too many time and show someone yet. Fuck I should just DivX it and put the unedited version up.

I always got outdone but someone else. He spun in front of me and end on the tyre of Lukey drive.

Even better post on the A050 (comparo with A048)

2007-09-05T18:59:00.000+10:00

048と比べた印象
１．蛇角を入れてもA048ほどフロントは引っ張らない。
２．ブレーキング時の安定感、縦のトラクション共にA048より上
３．冷えている時のグリップ感もA048より上
４．耐摩耗性もA048より上
５．フィーリングは・・・？慣れの問題か？

That means, the hairpin A048 pushes less, braking is more stable in A050, it works better in cool temp and last longer.

It is less sensitive to air pressure too.

More here

RaceChrono - A GPS smartphone program. Cheap and useful

2007-09-05T18:40:00.000+10:00

Well it is free. And I am going to have it "test run" next Saturday during my first Philip Island. It needs a bluetooth GPS receiver and the program is free to download. It is developed by a few track nuts and IT guru in Finland and I am sure they have done some great stuff.

Here is the lap times from my around the lab run. Haha .

This is the map around the block, with the start/finish line and S1 being set on the route (in the car). However, I found out later at home that I can set another trap when the session is finished. See the mark I set at S2. When the new trap S2 is set. I can even get a sector time from that. I can also delete any trap I previously set. So I think when I am out of the course for the first time. I can go back to the pits to set them out and match them with the official map

As you can see here. I set the cursor over in that. Press the ENTER button to go to this screen, and if I select the "Add trap to this" function. It will add me another trap.

Let me try this cf my AIMS unit on Saturday. fun!

A050 soft compound review

2007-09-05T18:39:00.000+10:00

Very interesting article and some deeper meaning of just longitudinal and transverse grip comparison.

http://feed.carview.co.jp/tb.aspx?t=blog&i=5832160&h=5c7e9

This person driving EVO still prefer A048.

Corner balancing - my suspension height is way out!

2007-08-27T20:15:00.000+10:00

I went to Melbourne Performance Centre again today to get the car on the scale! Well besides the fact that I need a diet (because I was also asked to sit in it), the suspension height is way off. There is a 10mm difference between the left and right rear suspension when Mr fat Taka is in-situ , and the weight for each corner is way off too.

This is the scale and wires ~

The plates goes under the car.

Adjustment is needed for all 4 corner but mainly the right rear. I helped too!~ but I had a slightly easier job.

Total weight of the car, with me (91kg) in it is 1430kg.

The corner of each car is like that and of course, with the driver in the right, the right side of the car is going to be heavier. The main thing they are trying to adjust is the right front to left rear ratio, or the cross ratio. This is aimed to be 50% when corner balancing. With me in it, the front is 52.1% and the right is 52.6%. So I am contributing to 2.1% and not quite 50:50. I need to lose weight, don't I. I also have the car in 3/4 tank of petrol to simulate what I have mostly on the track. I normally have a full tank to start off the day and reach to 1/2 by the end of it. So 3/4 of tank is the best.

Dean, who did the car up for me at MPC, said that if the balance is out before you will find the car will prefer to turn to one side under brakes, especially in my case where the rear is off. Actually in the last few track days, I found the car turned better to the right then to the left, which I struggle to set the final corner of Broadford.

Let us see later what this do.

By the way, the A048 is quieter than RE55s Bridgestone but they are still noisy.

My Knight Sports 4 BEAT tune

2007-08-08T00:39:00.000+10:00

This is the way to tune the car. Now I have it!

Here is my story and all the picture are taken from mobile phone (*sorry it is so bad :rolleyes: ).

From Knight Sports Website

そして実際の空燃比は、ノーマルの場合、２０００－９０００まで約１２－１３になっています。
Normal AFR is about 12-13.

ノックレベルをみながら思い切った燃調を試しましたが、結果的には１３－１３．５がベストパワーに
なります。 Considering without pinging, the best AFR is 13-13.5

結果的に点火が進み、空燃比がストックデータより約１ほど全域で薄い状態ですが、３０００ｒｐｍ
以上で、全域にわたり６-７馬力のアップ。排気効率の良いマフラーとの組み合わせで１１-１２馬力
アップします。特に中間域がきちんと上がっていますから、扱いやすいパワーカーブです。
Too technical for me for most of its parts: Essentially they talk about advancing the timing and if the AFR goes from low 12 to low 13s... one expects 6-7ps increase all the way from 3000rpm, with good flowing catback combination can achieve 11-12 ps. Mid range will increase mainly.

燃調と点火以外では、スピードリミット、レブリミット、電動ファンの作動温度設定、メタポンのマップ変更も
可能です。
Besides timing and ignition change. Speed cut, fan control.

弊社のデモカーでは、ファンの設定を８８度にしている為、常時９０度以内で水温が安定しています。
また、ＷＤＳによるチェックも行っていますが、異常は検出されませんし、アップデイトも問題ありません。 Fan is set at 88 degree. WDS can still check codes, update (?refresh) will be ok.

Now.

The morning started with me going there very early

The tuners arrived in a few several minutes ..... They come and inspect the dyno carefully My car gets on the dyno and do the initial run 119kW only

The guru... the gentleman on the right is the president of Knight Sports - a man with a few words. The tuner opens the ECU cover. Need some adjustment on the board to install the map

One is plugged to the harness and one to the other (bottom loop). Then he keys in the all the important data.

Uplading ... 30%. When the upload is finished. Check with the dyno graph again.

Finish ... a sticker of approval!

Dyno chart

Power to Torque

Power to AFR

I have some driving impression... but I will conclude after cold start tomorrow.

New new semi-slicks (Yokohama A048) - no track reviews until October (really)

2007-07-10T18:51:00.000+10:00

This is it. The new thing that glues. It took me 2 years to have the courage to try something new. And after a lot of Internet research (some of which are very bias I have to add), I decided on the Yokohama Advan A048. They are in the size of 235/40 R18 91Y MH compound. MH compound is the hardest compound and the same compound used in the Lotus Exige models.

From comparing between the 2 tyres (the Bridgestone on the left; and the Yokohama on the right), the tyres look the same in width. Although the Yoko is 235 and the Bridgestone is 245, the square shape of the Yokohama means the contact part of the tyre of Yoko is the same size as (if not any more than) the Bridgestone. The tyre is smaller - as you can see on the bottom picture, and lighter - with even just my hand I can tell, and certainly the size wall is stronger (with a smaller profile).

245/40 R18 Bridgestone (left tyre) VS 235/40 R18 Yokohama (right tyre)

I will track here of any track review, but these tyres are saved for the Nationals.

DIY workshop

2007-06-26T18:41:00.000+10:00

Last Saturday we held our first workshop and it was a complete success.

This is how it all started.
We started with a chilly morning.

Here was the sign welcome people to come in

They were already working on Kall's car

Craig's car was on display.

When people arrived, Andrew took the car (I mean rear brake) apart .

Iggy the cameraman!

.....while Evan dropped down notes (of how many things that Andrew did wrong j/k).

Real life drama!!!!!!

Andrew changing the rear brake pads

Andrew changing the front brake pads

There were deals behind the scene!

When we collected enough money to cover the damage (that Andrew did j/k ), the job was already done!

Then embedding begins!

Andrew's turn

The draining bit is so interesting

While he is waiting for his stuff to drain!

Online Videos by Veoh.com

BBQ TIME!

The BBQ is so good. That display is left alone to be cooled!

Thanks everyone for coming!

HKS talks about intakes for the RX-8

2007-06-19T18:37:00.000+10:00

This is the first of my translated Japanese magazine articles. More to come I promise.

“RX-8 air intake is a difficult subject and it is very sensitive to change. One must choose carefully,” said the intake designer at HKS.

Normally an open type intake works well for every car, since the best suction rate you can get is from this type of design. Totally open type in an Mazda RX-8, however, has an opposite effect.

If you want to increase the engine performance, the volume of air intake has to be increased. However, one must ensures cold air being taken in. Since high temperature air arising from an RX-8 has an increase total volume than colder air. Hence, a lower density of air particles, resulting from less air being taken in the end. The ECU also very sensitive to intake heat, and it may be the reason for reduction in engine power.

“On the other hand, if the box is totally sealed, the amount of air is certainly less than open type, hence performance of the intake will not be fully used. Therefore, the amount of open air expose to the intake, and the shape of the box, and where it opens are important.”

“We have produced the best intake whereby the intake amount and the air temp is balanced.”

Therefore, HKS opted for a suction intake has a shape not totally open or totally closed.

This is their analyses using different set ups.

Discussion

In my opinion, it is a very confusing article since the parameters on the graft are confusing.

The first graph indicates the temperature of the intake over engine revolution. It is very confusing since it is a difficult concept of the fact that the intake temp will reduce in hard revving. Does it mean more continuous air being sucked in and the actual temperate reading is being record by the sensor?

The dyno graph on the right shows marginal benefits. The max power difference at the top of the rev range is a mere 1-2kW. I hope they have factored in variations of power between runs on the same set up. This marginal result may not be argumentative enough.

To confuse me even more, the middle graph indicates a big variation between intake resistant versus the intake flow. The actual amount of flow in respect of the engine revolution/speed was not shown. I wonder how much of this graph translate to actual benefit of amount of air being taken in across the rev range.

The actual resistance benefit of the HKS filter element itself can be shown by comparing the result from both closed type boxes (the black graph and the blue graph). According to this, there is approximately 20-30% increase (~0.21 m3/sec to ~0.27 m3/sec at 4kPa of suction resistance). So I interpret that in the same type of box you use (close type), you will have increase of flow by 20-30% when you change to the HKS filter type alone. That is not great amount considering just changing the filter itself from MazdaSpeed, Pipercross (RMagic) and ITC will get at least 10-15% of improvement in filtration effort.

Conclusion

HKS has its point of balancing the amount of air and its temperature of an intake. I reckon there may be a better way then just merely opens the box and get more air flow, knowing they have done some sacrifice by getting small amount of bonnet air.

I think some sort of ram air via the bonnet may be a good solution, although it will not be rain proof.

Sandown + rain = no fun

2007-06-12T00:44:00.000+10:00

There is nothing good or positive that I can say about today. Wet Sandown bitumen is very challenging and in fact it is not much fun when you have to struggle. I think there was something to do with the old technology layout and the tree on the side of the track. The worst thing is most of the exit of the corner is shaded by them. It is more so on the exit of turn 4. While the rest of the track was dry, exit of turn 4 and the Dandenong corner was still way too wet. The worst is the uneven wet and dry line on the road. When the mid corner is wet, there is no way you get any rhythm.

My first session was in the wet, reflected by the shit times. It gradually dried out through out the day. But you can see, the time did not drop to reasonable levels until the late morning.

The first dry session is not perfect, there were still dirt and crap on the road from the rain and all the rubber on the track has been washed off. I could not trust myself to go all 9/10th on a corner. I had turned the DSC off once during the day to make some good run. I guess I am happy with the 1"31.73.

Here is the video

The new bumper guard put on and glued (笑)

2007-06-05T00:35:00.000+10:00

The tape is in and black silicon has to put in from the back to let it set for 24-48 hours. The gap will never be perfect since the edge of the middle has changed shape from the heat. We can only do the best we can. Should not have pull the melted plastic out and we have have a chance to remould it (淚).

Once I took it off the guard is glued well to the middle portion and the lower bumper. But you can still see considerable gap in the bottom part.

Who said Shelly No More Gaps is useful ... liar

Down to 2 choices

2007-05-27T18:36:00.000+10:00

Yokohama A048 VS Bridgestone RE55s

Some driver of a Lotus Exege in Japan written a wonderful blog on it. I grab the best part of it

５５Ｓの秘めたるパワーとは・・・それは縦方向のグリップ力である。技術論については情報不足でご免なさいなのであるが、０４８は縦横どちらかといえば横方向のグリップ力に勝り、５５Ｓは縦方向へのグリップ力に勝ると言われる。

サーキットとすてきなクルマ＆仲間たち - HAL ! 【みんカラ】ブログ

That translate to the 55S secret is on its power related,... as the longitudinal forces/grip is far more superior. And the 048 has a better balance on transverse and longitudinal grip but the transverse grip is far superior.

Then I interpret it as that....

A048 has more transverse grip, faster corner speed.
But RE55s may have better stopping power.
Putting power is combination of both directions of grip so I think they may be the same.
So if I have new pads than it is ok right? Also I will be racing in Winton for the Nats, which the new slicks are for.
Winton is far easy on brakes than another other track I have ever been.

I think I am very much leaning towards A048.... decision decision!

Choosing my S-tyre

2007-05-23T18:33:00.000+10:00

S tyre (aka R-spec tyre, semi slicks) is my vital part of the circuit time attack. I have been using the Bridgeston RE55S in 245/40-18, SR2 version. This S tyre is rated from time attack (short or long) to league racing. So the SR compound hit up quick but last very long, which is an all round tyre.

It is criticial to choose the tyre I am going to run at the National, and I found now the compound I am going to use too. It must last long, since I have to make it last the whole 2 days. So soft compound is out and there will be too much testing to do. There is a big group of A048 fan in Japan, and most of the trackkies in Japan are running A048, and not much are running Bridgestone. I really do not know why.

The choice for trackkies in Victoria is very clear. Most people are running Bridgestone or Toyo. It merely because Bridgestone (RE55S) is 2/3 of the price of the Dunlop D03G and Yokohama A048. But I do not find any evidence of the Dunlop and Yoko being a superior tyre. Japanese have in their blog saying that A048 does not last as long as the RE55S. Would that because they chose the wrong tyre?

I will track back to this thread once I have more info but so far I have the official site only.

Bridgestone RE55S, Dunlop D03G, and Yokohama A048. I am leaning on Dunlop at this stage.

Two track day for the price of one

2007-05-15T00:41:00.000+10:00

We went to Broadford motorcycle complex to have a track day with driverdynamics. It is a well run day. Kevin brought the rain with them in the morning and we have quite a good sliding run. Then the sun dried the track completely to have the best run of the day for me. I did a 1"09.83 which is 0.57 up from my best last time. I, in fact, did 2 laps of 1.09 which is amazing. There are improvement to be make... like putting a tubro kit in. (just kidding)

Design your own money!

2007-05-10T18:27:00.000+10:00

Yes it is plastic money. It is a major sucker for someone like us, isn't it? Putting your beautiful machine on the card. I am tempted to put myself on it actually.

www.designmycard.com.au

Does it give more incentive to use the card? Or it will be too precious to be used in the C/C machine?

The new bumper guard put on and glued (笑)

2007-05-10T18:19:00.000+10:00

Once I took it off the guard is glued well to the middle portion and the lower bumper. But you can still see considerable gap in the bottom part.

Who said Shelly No More Gaps is useful ... liar

A retrospect embarrassment

2007-05-04T18:30:00.000+10:00

I don't like to speak of my stupidity on the day. This happened about 3 weeks ago before the EXE track day. I just want to change the parker light, thinking it is easy done since I have done it so many times. Here I go and pop, the socket holding the parking bulb (a W5W or 194) came out nicely. The trouble was the bulb is lost.... in the casing! In an attempt to save my embarrassment, I try to get it via a stick, a chopstick and even put the Bluetek into the socket, trying to stick it out. And GUESS WHAT! The bluetek went in as well. Shit .

I use a lot of instruments, even those from my lab does not work. I knew I had to go to Nelson for it. He uses a flexible pick up tool to get it and take it out within a minute... fuk.

I swear if these LED go too soon, I will go back to Bluevision.

RX-8 Engine (13B-MSP) Miniature model

2007-05-04T18:22:00.000+10:00

I just brought this recently. It is very well made and has a clear exhaust port to tell people what MSP stands for. It is a 6 port engine with one housing. You prob has to buy 2 to make an RX-8 haha. But it turns and have 2 fake but clear marked spark plug (*leading - L and trailing - T).

New forum signature

2007-04-30T18:18:00.000+10:00

I use this ubdesigner website who makes nice animated bar for my forum signature. They are pretty need and can avoid big signature that angry some forum admins.

Here is mine.

Try it out yourself!

Anzac spirit - Time to sharpen my weapon

2007-04-25T00:30:00.000+10:00

It is the Anzac day today, a holiday for me to reflect the lives that sacrificed during the world war. What an opportunity to tell my wife that I need to get new tyres! ... I don't know it worked well deep down in her heart but I still got an "yes".

I have a set of right hand side Bridgestone RE55s SR compound at home, sitting in the shadiest and driest area in the garage. It is time to use it up since the manufacture date is in the 13th week of year 2005. To look it up. You can see the indented combination of the sidewall, usually in the inner aspect of tyre. The last 6 digits are the week and year of manufacture. I heard that the rubber will stay strong if the compound is kept away from the sunlight. I don't know. It is always good to have fresh rubber.

Went to a local tyre shop, whose boss kindly open for me on a public holiday. He ordered 2 left hand side for me. They are the same size (245/40ZR18). For those who are not aware, these are R-Spec compound (or S tyre in Japan, or Semi slick in Australian term). Their benefits are high grip and stable (unbeatable in any class) of their sidewalls. It is the ultimate weapon. The downsides are lots though : They are heavy (compare with road sports radials), noisy (have a constant wooooo noise at around 80kmh), pick up stones, and wear fast (I think their wear rating is a mere 80, and I already have the hardest compound of the list). Anyway, here are some pics for the thread pattern.

Also I looked at the old tread pattern that I am driving more evenly across the tyres. It is much better I think with a combination of better driving skill, wider offset and wider rim. Wish I had a camera to take pictures.

Nice exhaust notes comes with consequences

2007-04-20T00:33:00.000+10:00

Yes I was too painful to write on the spot but I had to take some pics. After installing the clutch I found the exhaust notes is different. Sounds so great! I thought the engine is just rev better since the clutch/flywheel install. And the tinging sound is just the clutch noise.

So wrong. The bolt of the midpipe actually comes off. And when I chase my time at Winton, it came off and give a nice exhaust blast. The best racing noise on earth. It may have robbed a kW or 2 from the turbulance flow though.

When I come back from the pit, I discovered the bumper is melted.

I felt the pain and the pic is just taken today.

Burn exhaust guard where the midpipe is.... you can see where the hot air goes through the plastic of the bumper. The clips have gone (melted) and I have to find a way to glue it on... well my mechanics has to do it. He is the one that cause the loose bolts.

The middle bit also suffered.... This will not make the repair... I might have to thinking of something clever for that. Need to polish the tip too!

Thanks heaps for William for his spare parts!.... I owe you one!