Rear endlink, lower arm bushings, and battery relocations.

I at least check my car 4 times a year at my mechanics. So change of from spring to summer, it is time to do another check. I only did 2000km since last change and 3 short cool spring track days since last oil change. I don't see the difference in terms of colour from the dip stick. So it is topped up to full mark and left for another day. Will change after new year or before the next track day.

 
I eventually get the rear Autoexe endlink installed. This is much adjustable but the require length is much shorter than stock. Stock is very high for the height of the car. I also get the member metal washer installed.

Then the major job to relocate the battery from the front or in front of steering axle to on top and slightly rearward to the axle. And the battery used now, although is much weaker in terms of crank amps (380 vs 750 CCA), is much lighter (7.8kg vs 17kg).

The empty space left after the battery case is removed is interesting. The idea is also to increase airflow though the engine bay. You can see the left side of space created shows the silver bracket of the Defi coolant sensor (that bracket is made from Fujita eng). So it is near radiator and hopefully air will partly go through there. I was told about this from a friend in Japan (thx Tom).

This kit is made by RE Amemiya, Please read my previous post about this. We found out the problem when we cannot match all.... the instructions in the installation menu. Firstly the stock washer is different shape in Australia, thanks to the stupid rule that all the HID lights sold has to have a washer. I wonder this is still current. Anyway we have to remove this motor and the washer tank, with the sensor attached. Lucky the low washer level light did not lid on the dash after removal of it. Otherwise it will drive me mad.

But the wiring of my RX-8 at the battery (+) point is different from the installation menu. Particularly, there is a big big big positive from the radiator side that seems to be missing in the Japanese models. Well we cannot risk a major error since you see that square box is the EPS (electronic power steering) fuse. Loosing power steering is not fun on the road at speed or no no on the track. No power steering is very heavy, you cannot even steer to get out of a car spot. (Addition: Now we have put all the cable back together like stock mode. Instead of the RE Amemiya's suggestion to bring the EPS unit by an extension cord to the new battery location. We feel that the extra wires and stuff deserves a proper connection so we just get a long connecter to connect from the stock location to the new location. Hope that will last long)

  This is the bonus oil catch can. The supplied tube runs from the top of oil inlet to the can before going to the MAF tube.

  The washer is now this tinny wee can size haha. The original motor can be used on the side (not shown in the picture). The odyssey battery sits very prettily in the bracket.

I also change the spark plugs. The old plugs are covered with carbon deposits after a year of track days plus very limited daily drive. But it is not fouled at all. However, even the difference from this good looking covered plugs to clean ones are amazing. I think I will clean those plug quite frequently now. I have asked Nelson to clean the plugs and save them for about autumn/winter time. We have also tested the spark plug cords/leads (after 2 years changing to the Fujita ones). They are ok. Resistance is about 380mOhm on leading, which is longer than the trailing ones at about 270mOhms. We decided if any one is under 200, we will change the whole set before burning the current set of coils.

It is now set for next Saturday's Winton day. Forecast is some rain/shower 3 days leading to Saturday's track day. The chance is low but we will see. Finger crossed .